Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

December Allergy Skincare: How Winter Allergies Affect Your Skin

While allergies are often associated with spring, winter brings its own triggers that can irritate the skin. Cold air, indoor heating, dry skin, and environmental allergens like dust and mold contribute to eczema flares, redness, and itchiness. Understanding the connection between winter allergies and skincare helps maintain comfort and skin health during December.


Common Winter Allergy Triggers

  1. Indoor Dust & Mites
    Heaters circulate dust, which can irritate sensitive skin.

  2. Mold in Damp Areas
    Bathrooms, basements, and poorly ventilated spaces encourage mold growth, triggering skin reactions.

  3. Dry Air
    Reduced humidity dries skin, weakening the barrier and making it more reactive.

  4. Holiday Products
    Fragrances, scented candles, or holiday cleaning chemicals may trigger contact dermatitis.

How Winter Allergies Manifest on Skin

  • Red, itchy patches

  • Eczema flares or hives

  • Dry, cracked hands or face

  • Rash around eyes or nose

Dermatologist-Recommended Skincare Tips

  • Hydrate Aggressively
    Use rich creams with ceramides or petrolatum to restore the skin barrier.

  • Avoid Irritants
    Choose fragrance-free soaps, cleansers, and laundry detergents.

  • Control Indoor Environment

    • Humidifiers maintain moisture

    • HEPA filters reduce airborne allergens

    • Wash bedding weekly in hot water

  • Gentle Cleansing
    Limit harsh exfoliants and hot water; these worsen sensitivity.

  • Consult a Dermatologist for Flares
    Prescription-strength creams or oral antihistamines may be necessary for severe reactions.

Winter allergies are a hidden trigger for skin irritation. By understanding environmental factors and maintaining a hydrating, protective skincare routine, you can minimize flares and keep skin healthy throughout December.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Top 5 Skincare Mistakes to Avoid in Winter

Winter weather can wreak havoc on your skin, from dryness to irritation. Even diligent skincare enthusiasts sometimes make mistakes that worsen winter skin problems. Avoiding these common errors ensures hydrated, healthy, and radiant skin all season.

1. Skipping Sunscreen

Even in December, UV rays can damage your skin. Snow reflects up to 80% of UV rays, increasing sun exposure. Mistake: using sunscreen only in summer.
Fix: Apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily on face, hands, and exposed areas.

2. Over-Washing or Using Hot Water

Hot showers strip the skin of natural oils, leaving it dry and irritated. Over-washing compounds the problem.
Fix: Use lukewarm water and gentle, hydrating cleansers. Limit showers to 5–10 minutes.

3. Using the Wrong Moisturizer

Light, summer moisturizers may not provide enough barrier protection for winter. Mistake: continuing with water-based lotions.
Fix: Switch to thicker creams or ointments with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, shea butter, or petrolatum.

4. Ignoring Humidity

Indoor heating can drastically reduce moisture in the air. Skipping a humidifier can worsen dryness, eczema, or irritation.
Fix: Use a bedroom or home humidifier to maintain optimal indoor humidity.

5. Neglecting Lips and Hands

Lips and hands are frequently overlooked but highly exposed. Dryness, cracking, and irritation are common.
Fix: Apply SPF lip balm, gloves outdoors, and heavy-duty hand cream multiple times daily.

Bonus Tips

  • Avoid harsh chemical exfoliants more than 1–2 times per week

  • Use gentle, fragrance-free products to reduce irritation

  • Layer skincare: hydrating serums first, then occlusive moisturizer

Winter skincare requires adaptation and protection. By avoiding these five common mistakes and following dermatologist-recommended routines, you can maintain hydrated, smooth, and healthy skin all season long.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Winter Hair Loss: Why December Can Trigger Shedding

If you’ve noticed more hair in your brush or shower drain this December, you’re not alone. Seasonal hair shedding, sometimes called winter telogen effluvium, affects many people each year. Understanding the causes and preventative strategies can help maintain hair density and health throughout the colder months.

Why Hair Loss Increases in Winter

  1. Dry, Cold Air Weakens Hair
    Low humidity and indoor heating strip moisture from hair shafts, making hair more brittle and prone to breakage.

  2. Seasonal Hair Growth Cycles
    Hair naturally cycles through growth (anagen), resting (telogen), and shedding (catagen) phases. Winter often coincides with more hairs entering the telogen phase, leading to noticeable shedding.

  3. Reduced Sunlight & Vitamin D
    Vitamin D supports hair follicle function. Shorter winter days can lead to lower vitamin D levels, weakening hair growth and contributing to shedding.

  4. Stress & Holiday Lifestyle
    December often brings stress, travel, and dietary changes, all of which can exacerbate hair shedding.

Signs of Winter Hair Loss

  • Noticeable hair in combs, brushes, or pillows

  • Thinning at the crown or part line

  • Hair breaking easily when brushed

  • Dry, dull hair texture

Most winter shedding is temporary, but persistent thinning may indicate underlying hair disorders like androgenetic alopecia or autoimmune conditions.

How to Protect Your Hair in Winter

  1. Moisturize Hair & Scalp
    Use hydrating shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments. Oils like argan or jojoba can lock in moisture.

  2. Avoid Over-Washing & Heat Styling
    Frequent washing strips natural oils; hot tools increase breakage.

  3. Maintain Vitamin & Mineral Intake
    Vitamin D, biotin, zinc, and iron support hair health. Consider supplementation after consulting a dermatologist.

  4. Manage Stress
    Meditation, exercise, and sufficient sleep help prevent stress-induced shedding.

  5. Consult a Dermatologist
    If shedding persists beyond a few months, or is patchy, a dermatologist can recommend treatments like PRP, low-level laser therapy, or prescription options.

Winter hair loss is common and usually temporary. By protecting your hair, nourishing the scalp, and seeking early guidance when needed, you can reduce shedding and maintain healthy hair until spring.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Why Skin Cancer Surgery Heals Best in Winter

If you’ve been diagnosed with skin cancer, you might wonder if timing surgery matters. Surprisingly, winter offers ideal conditions for surgical healing, especially for dermatologic procedures like Mohs surgery. Understanding why can help you maximize outcomes, reduce complications, and ensure the best cosmetic results.

1. Cooler Temperatures Reduce Swelling

Winter’s low temperatures minimize:

  • Post-surgical inflammation

  • Redness

  • Bruising

Compared to summer, healing is more comfortable, and discomfort is less noticeable.

2. Lower Sun Exposure Minimizes Pigmentation

Sunlight triggers hyperpigmentation and scarring after skin surgery. Winter allows:

  • Minimal UV exposure

  • Natural coverage with scarves, hats, and coats

  • Safer post-surgical recovery for face, neck, and hands

This is especially important for patients prone to keloids or dark scars.

3. Reduced Sweating Lowers Infection Risk

High summer temperatures can increase sweating, which may:

  • Irritate wounds

  • Increase infection risk

  • Delay healing

Winter’s cooler climate keeps surgical areas drier, promoting faster, cleaner healing.

4. Scar Healing Improves

Optimal wound care includes avoiding:

  • Excess sun

  • Excess moisture

  • Friction

Winter clothing and reduced outdoor activity naturally support these conditions, leading to less visible scarring.

5. Easier Concealment

Many patients are concerned about appearance post-surgery. Winter offers:

  • Long sleeves

  • Scarves

  • Hats

  • Turtlenecks

This makes covering stitches and wounds easier, reducing stress during recovery.

Tips for Post-Surgical Success in Winter

  • Moisturize and protect the wound as instructed

  • Avoid direct heat from fireplaces or heaters near the wound

  • Keep the area clean and follow all dermatologist directions

  • Limit strenuous activity that could stretch the incision

Winter provides ideal healing conditions for skin cancer surgeries, from lower swelling and reduced infection risk to better scar outcomes. Scheduling procedures during colder months ensures maximum safety, comfort, and cosmetic results, helping patients recover quickly and confidently.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

What to Expect During Mohs Surgery for Skin Cancer

Mohs surgery is considered the gold standard for removing skin cancers, especially on the face or areas where preserving tissue is crucial. Unlike traditional excisions, Mohs surgery removes cancerous tissue layer by layer, allowing dermatologists to check each layer under a microscope immediately. This approach maximizes removal of cancer cells while sparing healthy tissue.

Why Mohs Surgery Is Recommended

Mohs surgery is ideal for:

  • Basal cell carcinoma

  • Squamous cell carcinoma

  • Recurrent skin cancers

  • Cancers in cosmetically sensitive areas

It offers higher cure rates, precise tissue preservation, and lower recurrence risk compared to standard excision.

The Procedure: Step by Step

  1. Local Anesthesia
    The area is numbed so the patient feels minimal discomfort. General anesthesia is usually unnecessary.

  2. Layered Removal
    The dermatologist removes the visible tumor along with a thin layer of surrounding tissue.

  3. Microscopic Examination
    The tissue is examined in real-time to check for cancer cells. If cancer remains, another layer is removed.

  4. Repeat Until Clear
    The process continues until no cancer cells are detected.

  5. Wound Reconstruction
    Depending on the size and location, the surgeon may close the wound with stitches, let it heal naturally, or perform a skin flap or graft.

Recovery and Care

  • Mild swelling and redness are common

  • Keep the wound clean and covered as instructed

  • Avoid sun exposure on the treated area until fully healed

  • Stitches are typically removed in 5–14 days, depending on the location

Most patients can return to normal activities immediately, making it a convenient option for busy schedules.

Benefits of Mohs Surgery

  • Highest cure rate for skin cancers

  • Minimal removal of healthy tissue

  • Optimized cosmetic outcomes

Immediate microscopic evaluation prevents recurrence

Who Should Consider Mohs Surgery

Patients with skin cancers:

  • On the face, neck, ears, or hands

  • That are recurrent or aggressive

  • With high-risk features (size, location, histology)

Mohs surgery is a precise, effective, and safe procedure that prioritizes cure and cosmetic outcome. If you have a suspicious lesion or recurrent skin cancer, early consultation with a board-certified dermatologist is critical for best results and peace of mind.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

2025 Cosmetic Dermatology Trends: What’s Hot and What’s Not

As we approach 2026, cosmetic dermatology continues to evolve. Patients are seeking natural, subtle, and long-lasting results rather than dramatic transformations. Dermatologists are seeing a shift toward regenerative treatments, skin health-focused procedures, and minimally invasive options. Here’s a breakdown of the top trends expected to dominate the industry in 2026.

1. Subtle Contouring and Natural Enhancement

Gone are the days of overfilled lips or exaggerated cheekbones. Patients now prefer:

  • Soft contouring of facial features

  • Rejuvenation that highlights natural bone structure

  • Minimal downtime treatments like neuromodulators and micro-fillers

The focus is enhancing your own features rather than altering them completely.

2. Regenerative Treatments Take Center Stage

Regenerative procedures, including PRP (platelet-rich plasma) injections, stem-cell adjuncts, and growth factor serums, are gaining popularity because they:

  • Stimulate natural collagen and elastin

  • Improve skin texture and tone

  • Promote long-lasting skin rejuvenation

Patients are seeking treatments that work with their body’s biology, not just on the surface.

3. Skin-Boosting Injectables

Skin health-focused injectables are replacing traditional fillers in some cases:

  • Micro-needling with PRP

  • Hyaluronic acid skin boosters

  • Vitamin and peptide infusions

These improve hydration, texture, and radiance rather than just volume.

4. Minimal Downtime Procedures

Busy lifestyles are driving the demand for quick, effective treatments:

  • Non-ablative laser resurfacing

  • Hydrafacials

  • Gentle chemical peels

  • Targeted laser hair removal

Patients want noticeable improvements without significant recovery time, especially around holidays or special events.

5. Personalized Skincare & AI Dermatology

Technology is playing a bigger role in personalized dermatology:

  • AI-assisted skin analysis

  • Tailored treatment plans based on genetics and lifestyle

  • Data-driven recommendations for products and procedures

This ensures efficiency, safety, and maximized results.

6. What’s Out

  • Overfilled lips or unnatural facial volumization

  • Aggressive peels in sun-exposed months

  • One-size-fits-all approaches

  • Heavy reliance on only one type of treatment

The trend is toward subtle, layered, and individualized approaches.


In 2026, cosmetic dermatology emphasizes natural-looking enhancements, skin health, and smart, minimally invasive procedures. Consulting with a board-certified dermatologist ensures your treatments are both modern and tailored to your unique skin needs.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Holiday Glow-Up: Combining Chemical Peels & Hydrafacials Safely

December is the season for celebrations, family photos, and holiday parties. If you want radiant, glowing skin, combining professional treatments like chemical peels and Hydrafacials can deliver dramatic results. Done safely, these procedures can help your skin look fresh, youthful, and camera-ready for all your holiday events.

Why Skin Looks Dull in Winter

Winter weather and indoor heating create:

  • Dry, flaky skin

  • Loss of natural glow

  • Increased sensitivity

A combination of exfoliation and hydration restores your skin’s natural radiance.

1. How Chemical Peels Work

Chemical peels remove the outer layer of damaged skin, stimulating:

  • Collagen production

  • Smooth texture

  • Brighter tone

  • Reduced hyperpigmentation and fine lines

Different peels range from light (gentle exfoliation) to medium/deep (for more pronounced issues). Winter’s low sun exposure reduces pigmentation risk after peels.

2. Hydrafacials: Deep Cleansing & Hydration

Hydrafacials:

  • Remove impurities and debris from pores

  • Infuse hydration with serums

  • Reduce inflammation and redness

  • Provide instant glow

Unlike some aggressive facials, Hydrafacials are safe for sensitive winter skin.

3. Why Combine Them?

Layering treatments enhances results:

  • Peel exfoliates and prepares the skin for serum absorption

  • Hydrafacial hydrates and calms the skin post-exfoliation

  • Together, they create a smoother, brighter, and plumper complexion

Timing matters—dermatologists often schedule the peel first, followed by Hydrafacial after healing or for maintenance.

4. Safety Tips

  • Avoid direct sun for a week after chemical peels

  • Use SPF daily, even in winter

  • Follow dermatologist guidance on at-home skincare products

  • Start with milder peels if combining for the first time

5. Ideal Timing for Holidays

  • Mild peels: 3–5 days before an event

  • Hydrafacials: 1–2 days before photos for immediate glow

  • Consult your dermatologist to tailor timing for multiple procedures

A holiday-ready glow doesn’t require filters—it requires strategic, professional treatments. Combining chemical peels and Hydrafacials safely gives instant radiance, improved texture, and a refreshed complexion. With careful timing and dermatologist guidance, your skin can look flawless for every holiday celebration.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Winter Botox Guide: Why Cold Weather Improves Results

Botox has become a staple for anti-aging and wrinkle prevention. While patients often schedule treatments year-round, winter offers unique advantages for optimal results. If you’re considering Botox injections before the holidays or the New Year, here’s why the colder months are ideal.

1. Cooler Weather Reduces Swelling and Bruising

After Botox injections, minor swelling, redness, or bruising can occur. Cold winter temperatures help minimize:

  • Inflammation

  • Puffiness

  • Discomfort at injection sites

This allows a faster return to social events without visible marks.

2. Easier Scheduling Around Holidays

December offers strategic timing:

  • Plan injections before holiday parties or photos

  • Results appear in 7–10 days, perfect for events

  • Minimal interference with travel or winter vacations

3. Botox Enhances Holiday Confidence

Dynamic wrinkles—lines formed by muscle movement—can appear more pronounced in holiday photos under artificial lighting or camera flash. Botox provides:

  • Smoother forehead lines

  • Reduced crow’s feet

  • Softer frown lines

It’s a quick, non-invasive way to look refreshed and youthful.

4. Botox Prevents Future Wrinkles

Winter is a smart time to start preventative Botox:

  • Cooler months reduce sun exposure, which slows collagen breakdown

  • Wrinkle formation is minimized

Maintaining regular treatments prevents deep lines from forming

5. Tips for Winter Botox

  • Schedule injections 7–10 days before major events for peak results

  • Avoid excessive heat immediately after injections (hot showers or saunas)

  • Maintain a consistent skincare routine with moisturizer and SPF

6. Combining Botox With Other Treatments

For maximum holiday-ready results, Botox can be combined with:

  • Dermal fillers

  • Hydrafacials

  • Chemical peels

This layered approach ensures radiant, youthful skin with minimal downtime.

Winter is not just cold—it’s Botox season. Cooler temperatures, social timing, and preventative benefits make December ideal for wrinkle reduction. With a tailored plan from a dermatologist, you can enjoy smooth, refreshed skin just in time for the holidays.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Why December Is the Perfect Time for Laser Treatments

Laser treatments are among the most effective ways to rejuvenate your skin, reduce pigmentation, treat scars, and improve texture. While many associate laser procedures with summer, December is actually an ideal month to start or continue laser therapies. Here’s why winter offers optimal conditions for laser success.

1. Low Sun Exposure Reduces Complications

One of the biggest risks after laser procedures is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which occurs when the treated skin is exposed to UV rays. During December:

  • Shorter days and weaker sun intensity lower UV exposure

  • Cold weather naturally limits sun time

  • Patients often wear scarves, coats, and gloves, protecting treated areas

This makes winter safer for laser resurfacing, pigment correction, and hair removal.

2. Faster Healing with Cooler Weather

Cooler temperatures reduce:

  • Swelling

  • Redness

  • Discomfort

Unlike summer, when heat and sweat can irritate healing skin, December’s climate allows smoother recovery.

3. Ideal Timing Before Holidays and New Year

Many patients want glowing, refreshed skin for holiday photos and celebrations. Starting a laser treatment in December ensures:

  • Enough recovery time for redness to subside

  • Visible results by holiday events

  • A head start on New Year skin goals

4. Multiple Treatment Options

Winter is perfect for:

  • Laser hair removal — sun avoidance post-treatment is easier

  • Non-ablative lasers — minimal downtime with collagen stimulation
    Fractional resurfacing — smooths texture and reduces wrinkles

  • IPL photofacials — tackles redness, pigmentation, and broken capillaries

By choosing the right laser for your skin type, a dermatologist can create a customized plan with minimal risk.

5. Maximizing Long-Term Results

Laser treatments often require multiple sessions. Starting in December allows for:

  • Strategic spacing of sessions in low UV months

  • Cumulative improvement by spring

  • Enhanced outcomes with seasonal skincare routines

Tips for Safe Winter Laser Treatments

  • Avoid aggressive exfoliation before or after treatment

  • Protect treated areas with SPF, even in winter

  • Use gentle, soothing skincare post-procedure

  • Follow dermatologist instructions closely

December isn’t just a festive season—it’s prime time for laser procedures. Lower sun exposure, cooler temperatures, and holiday scheduling make it ideal for safer treatments and optimal results. Consulting a dermatologist ensures you get a personalized plan for glowing, refreshed skin this winter.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Top Anti-Aging Procedures to Start Before the New Year

If your goal for 2026 is youthful, radiant skin, there’s no better time than December to start anti-aging procedures. Cooler temperatures, minimal sun exposure, and holiday downtime make winter an ideal season to begin treatments that will show results in the new year.

Here’s a dermatologist-approved guide to the best anti-aging procedures to start now.

1. Botox & Neuromodulators

Botox is a go-to procedure for preventing dynamic wrinkles. By relaxing the underlying facial muscles:

  • Fine lines soften

  • Future wrinkles are slowed

  • Minimal downtime allows social plans without interruption

Tip: Start before the New Year to see results by holiday photos or early January.

2. Dermal Fillers

Fillers restore lost volume, giving a more youthful appearance. Common areas:

  • Cheeks

  • Lips

  • Jawline

  • Nasolabial folds

Many fillers have immediate results, making them perfect for a pre-New Year refresh.

3. Laser Treatments

Laser resurfacing and non-ablative lasers address:

  • Fine lines

  • Sun damage

  • Uneven texture

  • Acne scars

Winter is optimal because low sun reduces the risk of post-treatment pigmentation.

4. Microneedling & PRP

Microneedling stimulates collagen production, and combining it with PRP (platelet-rich plasma) accelerates rejuvenation.

  • Improves skin texture

  • Smooths fine lines

  • Promotes a natural glow

Multiple sessions may be recommended for long-lasting results.


5. Chemical Peels

Chemical peels remove damaged surface skin to reveal:

  • Smoother texture

  • Brighter tone

  • Fewer fine lines

  • Reduced hyperpigmentation

Winter is ideal to avoid sun-induced pigmentation after a peel.

Why Start Before the New Year

  • You can see visible improvement for holiday photos

  • Treatments initiated now show results in January, boosting confidence

  • Cooler months reduce sun exposure, improving safety and healing

Tips for Anti-Aging Success

  • Combine treatments for optimal results

  • Maintain home skincare with SPF, retinoids, and moisturizers

  • Schedule consultations early to plan a tailored treatment plan

Anti-aging doesn’t have to wait for resolutions. Starting treatments now ensures glowing, youthful skin for the holidays and sets the stage for a confident start to 2025. Consult a dermatologist for a personalized plan that addresses your specific needs.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Get Holiday-Photo Ready: Cosmetic Treatments to Glow This December

The holidays are filled with celebrations, parties, and family photos. Many patients want to look refreshed and radiant for events. The good news? Cosmetic dermatology offers fast, safe, and effective treatments that deliver visible results with minimal downtime.

Here’s a breakdown of top treatments to get holiday-ready and why December is the perfect time.

1. Botox & Neuromodulators

Botox reduces fine lines and wrinkles by relaxing facial muscles. December is ideal because:

  • Cooler temperatures reduce swelling

  • Results appear within 7–10 days—perfect for holiday events

  • Minimal downtime allows normal social plans

Common target areas: forehead lines, crow’s feet, and frown lines.

2. Dermal Fillers

Fillers restore volume, smooth out wrinkles, and enhance features. Quick injections can improve:

  • Cheeks and midface volume

  • Nasolabial folds

  • Lips and jawline

They provide instant results with subtle, natural-looking enhancement.

3. Hydrafacials

Hydrafacials exfoliate, cleanse, and hydrate in one session. Benefits include:

  • Radiant, glowing skin

  • Pore refinement

  • Reduction of fine lines and dullness

It’s safe for all skin types and perfect for last-minute glow before holiday photos.

4. Chemical Peels

Mild to moderate peels improve:

  • Skin texture

  • Fine lines

  • Sun spots and hyperpigmentation

Winter is ideal because low sun exposure reduces the risk of post-peel pigmentation.

5. Laser Treatments

Non-ablative lasers target:

  • Redness

  • Pigmentation

  • Skin texture

  • Acne scars

They are effective with minimal downtime, making them holiday-ready.

Why December Is the Perfect Time

  • Cooler weather reduces post-treatment swelling

  • Low sun exposure minimizes pigmentation risk

  • Most procedures are quick, making them easy to fit into holiday schedules

Tips for a Holiday-Ready Look

  • Schedule injectables at least 7–10 days before major events

  • Combine treatments for best results (ex: Hydrafacial + Botox)

  • Maintain skincare at home with gentle cleansers, SPF, and moisturizer

Whether it’s a subtle lift, instant glow, or smoothing of fine lines, cosmetic dermatology offers safe, effective, and quick options for looking your best this holiday season. Plan early, consult a dermatologist, and enjoy picture-perfect confidence.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Chapped Lips vs. Actinic Cheilitis: Know the Difference Before It’s Too Late

Winter brings dry air, cold winds, and indoor heating, making chapped lips nearly unavoidable. But sometimes what seems like ordinary dryness may actually be actinic cheilitis, a precancerous condition that requires medical attention. Understanding the difference can protect your health while keeping lips soft and healthy.

What Are Chapped Lips?

Chapped lips, or cheilitis, are common in cold months. They occur when moisture evaporates from the lips faster than it can be replaced.

Symptoms of chapped lips:

  • Peeling or flaking

  • Cracks at corners

  • Redness

  • Mild soreness

Common Causes:

  • Cold, dry air

  • Frequent licking of lips

  • Dehydration

  • Wind exposure

Most chapped lips respond well to moisturizing lip balms, petroleum jelly, or lanolin-based treatments.

What Is Actinic Cheilitis?

Actinic cheilitis is a precancerous condition caused by long-term sun exposure. It affects the lower lip more than the upper lip and can progress to squamous cell carcinoma if untreated.

Signs of actinic cheilitis:

  • Persistent roughness or scaling

  • Color changes (whitish, gray, or reddish areas)

  • Thickened skin

  • Crusts that do not heal

  • Pain or tenderness

Unlike ordinary chapped lips, actinic cheilitis does not improve with lip balms and often worsens over time.

Risk Factors

  • Fair skin

  • Outdoor work or sun exposure

  • Age over 40

  • History of skin cancer

How Dermatologists Diagnose It

A dermatologist performs a visual exam and may take a biopsy if the lesion looks suspicious. Early detection allows for less invasive treatment and reduces cancer risk.

Treatment Options

  • Chapped Lips: Hydration, protective lip balms, gentle exfoliation

  • Actinic Cheilitis: Cryotherapy, topical medications, laser therapy, or surgical removal

Prevention Tips

  • Apply broad-spectrum SPF lip balm daily—even in winter

  • Stay hydrated

  • Avoid licking lips

  • Cover lips with a scarf in wind or cold

  • Have regular skin exams if you have high sun exposure history

Not all lip dryness is harmless. Persistent roughness, discoloration, or scaling may signal actinic cheilitis, which is treatable and preventable with early care. Protecting your lips this winter ensures both comfort and safety.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

How Cold Weather Triggers Rosacea – And How to Keep Redness Under Control

If your face becomes red, flushed, or sensitive during winter, you may be experiencing cold-weather rosacea flare-ups. Rosacea is a chronic condition that affects millions, and winter is one of the most challenging seasons for managing symptoms. Cold air, wind, hot indoor environments, and holiday triggers all contribute to noticeable facial redness.

Here’s exactly why rosacea worsens in winter—and how to keep your skin calm and balanced.

Why Rosacea Gets Worse in Cold Weather

1. Temperature Changes Cause Blood Vessel Dilation

Moving from cold outdoor air to warm indoor heat causes blood vessels to rapidly expand and contract. For those with rosacea, this leads to:

  • Facial flushing

  • Burning sensation

  • Visible blood vessels

  • Red patches

This vascular instability is one of the primary winter triggers.

2. Cold Wind Damages the Skin Barrier

Wind exposure irritates the top layer of the skin, causing:

  • Increased sensitivity

  • Stinging

  • Texture roughness

  • More intense redness

Barrier damage makes rosacea harder to control.

3. Holiday Triggers Intensify Symptoms

December comes with common rosacea triggers:

  • Alcohol

  • Hot drinks

  • Spicy foods

  • Stress

  • Travel

These all increase facial inflammation.

4. Dry Air Makes Skin More Reactive

Low humidity pulls moisture from the skin, weakening its ability to defend against irritants. Dry, fragile skin is more prone to redness and burning.

How to Prevent Rosacea Flares in Winter

1. Protect Your Skin Outdoors

Use:

  • A scarf

  • A balaclava

  • Gentle moisturizer before exposure

This creates a protective barrier against wind.

2. Choose Rosacea-Friendly Skincare

Ingredients that calm rosacea:

  • Niacinamide

  • Azelaic acid

  • Ceramides

  • Centella asiatica

  • Green tea extract

Avoid fragrance, alcohol, and harsh acids.

3. Regulate Indoor Heat

Keep temperatures moderate and avoid sitting near heaters, which intensify dryness and redness.

4. Reduce Holiday Triggers

If alcohol or spicy foods worsen redness, try limiting them or drinking slowly with water between sips.

5. See a Dermatologist for Prescription Relief

Professional treatments include:

  • Topical anti-inflammatory creams

  • Laser therapy for redness

  • Oral medications for severe cases

These significantly reduce long-term flares.

Winter can be a difficult season for anyone with rosacea, but understanding your triggers can help you prevent flare-ups before they start. With proper skincare and dermatologist support, you can keep redness under control all season long.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Why Skin Cancer Checks Matter Even in Winter

Most people associate skin cancer checks with summer, but winter is actually one of the best and most important times to schedule your annual exam. Despite colder temperatures and cloudy days, UV rays remain active year-round—and skin cancer does not take a seasonal break.

Dermatologists often see patients delay important mole evaluations until summer, but waiting can allow dangerous lesions to progress. Here’s why winter is the ideal time to check your skin.

1. UV Exposure Still Occurs in Winter

It’s a common misconception that UV radiation disappears with cold temperatures.

The truth:

  • UVA rays penetrate clouds

  • UV reflects strongly off snow

  • Drivers receive daily UV exposure through car windows

These rays contribute to aging and increase the risk of skin cancer.

2. Clothing Hides Concerning Moles

In winter, people are bundled up—meaning changing moles or new growths often go unnoticed. By the time summer arrives, a lesion may have:

  • Grown

  • Changed color

  • Become irregular

  • Spread deeper

Early detection is the most powerful tool in preventing skin cancer.

3. Winter = Best Healing Conditions for Biopsies or Removal

If your dermatologist needs to remove a mole, winter provides ideal healing conditions:

  • Less sun exposure

  • Cooler temperatures reduce swelling

  • Lower risk of hyperpigmentation

  • Bandages and sutures are easier to conceal

Post-surgical care is easier in winter because sweat and sun exposure are minimal.

4. Skin Cancer Is Increasing in All Ages

Melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers are rising—even in young adults. Winter exams catch abnormalities early and protect patients year-round.

5. Holiday Stress + Travel = Sun Exposure

December vacations often include:

  • Ski trips (snow reflection)

  • Sunny getaways

  • Long drives

These all contribute to UV damage.

What Happens During a Winter Skin Exam?

Your dermatologist will examine:

  • Face

  • Scalp

  • Neck

  • Chest

  • Back

  • Arms

  • Legs

  • Hands and feet

  • Nails

Any suspicious spots will be photographed, monitored, or biopsied if needed.


Warning Signs: The ABCDE Melanoma Rule

Look for:

  • Asymmetry

  • Border irregularity

  • Color changes

  • Diameter over 6mm

  • Evolving shape or symptoms

If you notice any of these, schedule an appointment immediately.

Winter may seem like an unexpected time for a skin exam, but it’s one of the smartest choices you can make for your long-term health. Early detection saves lives—and winter offers the safest, easiest healing conditions for any necessary procedures.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Holiday Stress & Your Skin: Why December Causes Breakouts, Redness & Flare-Ups

The holiday season is known for celebrations, travel, and family gatherings—but it’s also one of the most stressful times of the year. That stress shows up directly on your skin. December leads to a sharp spike in acne, hives, eczema flare-ups, and rosacea symptoms. If your skin seems to fall apart every holiday season, you’re not alone.

Dermatologists consistently report that holiday stress is one of the top triggers of skin concerns in December. Here’s what happens inside the body and how to protect your skin when life gets hectic.

How Stress Affects the Skin: The Science Behind the Symptoms

1. Cortisol Surges Increase Oil Production

When we experience stress, the body releases the hormone cortisol. High cortisol levels stimulate the sebaceous glands, causing:

  • Increased oil production

  • Clogged pores

  • Inflammatory acne

This is why many people get clusters of chin or jawline breakouts during stressful times.

2. Stress Weakens the Skin Barrier

A strong skin barrier is essential for hydration and protection. Stress causes the barrier to break down faster, resulting in:

  • Dryness

  • Sensitivity

  • Redness

  • Eczema flare-ups

The combination of dry winter air + holiday stress = a perfect storm for irritated skin.

3. Chronic Stress Worsens Skin Conditions

For those already living with dermatologic conditions, stress can make symptoms significantly worse.

Common flare triggers include:

  • Rosacea

  • Eczema

  • Psoriasis

  • Hives

  • Seborrheic dermatitis

These conditions are directly influenced by inflammatory responses in the body.

4. Holiday Habits Make It Even Worse

Stress isn’t the only culprit. December brings:

  • Sugary foods

  • Alcohol

  • Poor sleep

  • Travel

  • Skipped skincare routines

Each of these increases inflammatory reactions in the skin.


How to Calm Stress-Induced Skin Problems

1. Prioritize Your Skin Barrier

Keep your skincare routine simple and gentle. Look for:

  • Ceramides

  • Hyaluronic acid

  • Niacinamide

  • Squalane

Avoid exfoliating too aggressively during flare-ups.

2. Add Stress-Reducing Steps

Even small shifts help regulate cortisol:

  • Deep breathing

  • Short walks

  • Limiting caffeine

  • Staying hydrated

Better stress control = better skin.

3. Treat Stress Acne Strategically

If you break out during high-stress periods, use:

  • Benzoyl peroxide spot treatments

  • Salicylic acid cleansers

  • Retinoids (if tolerated)

Dermatologists can prescribe stronger treatments for fast relief.

4. Protect Sensitive Skin from Winter Triggers

If eczema or rosacea worsens:

  • Avoid fragrance

  • Use lukewarm water

  • Moisturize twice daily

  • Protect the face outdoors with a scarf

Holiday stress is real, and your skin feels it. By understanding your triggers and adjusting your routine, you can prevent flare-ups and maintain a calm, clear, and hydrated complexion—even during the busiest time of the year.

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Dry Skin vs. Psoriasis in Winter — How to Tell the Difference

Winter weather can make everyone’s skin dry—but sometimes persistent flakes or redness are signs of something more serious: psoriasis. Because both conditions worsen during cold months, it’s easy to confuse them. Understanding the difference ensures proper treatment and prevents misdiagnosis.

What Is Dry Skin?

Dry skin occurs when the skin loses moisture and becomes rough or flaky. It’s usually temporary and improves with moisturizing.

Common symptoms:

  • Flaking or peeling

  • Tightness

  • Mild itching

  • Rough texture

Dry skin typically appears on:

  • Arms

  • Legs

  • Hands

  • Torso

What Is Psoriasis?

Psoriasis is an autoimmune condition that causes skin cells to build up too quickly, forming thick plaques.

Signs it may be psoriasis:

  • Thick, raised patches

  • Silver or white scales

  • Redness with clear borders

  • Bleeding when picked

  • Chronic recurrence

Common locations:

  • Knees

  • Scalp

  • Lower back

  • Elbows

Why Winter Makes Psoriasis Worse

  • Less sunlight → lower vitamin D

  • Cold air → dries the barrier

  • Indoor heating → worsens inflammation

How to Tell the Difference

Psoriasis:

  • Texture: Thick, raised

  • Color: Red plaques with silver scales

  • Location: Elbows, knees, scalp

  • Pain: Can crack or bleed

  • Duration: Chronic

Dry Skin:

  • Texture: Rough

  • Color: Light flakes

  • Location: Anywhere

  • Pain: Mild

  • Duration: Mild, temporary

When to See a Dermatologist

If dryness does not improve with moisturizer or is painful, bleeding, or scaly, it may be psoriasis. Dermatologists offer treatments such as topical steroids, vitamin D creams, and light therapy.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

The Top 5 Winter Skin Conditions Dermatologists See Every December

Winter may be a festive season, but for dermatologists, it’s also the busiest time of year. Cold air, wind, holiday stress, and indoor heating cause a surge in certain skin conditions that many people don’t experience any other time of year. If your skin seems more sensitive, itchy, or inflamed in December, you’re not alone.

Here are the top five winter skin issues dermatologists treat—and how to prevent them.

1. Eczema and Severe Dryness

Winter air has the lowest humidity of any season, which rapidly dries the skin. Eczema-prone areas such as the hands, neck, and creases of elbows and knees become inflamed.

Symptoms:

  • Redness

  • Flaking

  • Cracking

  • Itching that worsens at night


Prevention:
Use barrier-repair moisturizers and avoid hot showers.

2. Psoriasis Flare-Ups

Psoriasis is heavily influenced by environmental changes. Lack of sunlight and dry air both worsen symptoms.

Symptoms:

  • Thicker plaques

  • Intense scaling

  • Cracking or bleeding skin

Why it worsens in winter:
Lower vitamin D levels and compromised skin barrier function.

3. Rosacea Redness

Fluctuating temperatures—cold outside, heat inside—are major triggers for rosacea.

Common triggers:

  • Wind exposure

  • Holiday alcohol

  • Spicy foods

  • Stress

Tip:
Use gentle skincare and protect the face with scarves outdoors.

4. Seborrheic Dermatitis

Winter causes overgrowth of yeast on the skin, leading to flaking and redness around the scalp, sides of the nose, and eyebrows.

Symptoms:

  • Dandruff

  • Facial flaky patches

  • Itchy scalp

Treatments:
Medicated shampoos, antifungal creams, and barrier repair.

5. Winter Itch (Xerosis)

Even people without skin conditions often develop extreme dryness called “winter itch.”

Causes:

  • Indoor heating

  • Long, warm showers

  • Cold wind

  • Dehydration

Best fix:
A humidifier + thick moisturizer.

Winter triggers predictable skin issues, but with targeted skincare, most can be prevented. If symptoms worsen or become painful, a dermatologist can tailor a treatment plan to restore your skin’s comfort and clarity.

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Jaimie Gurley Jaimie Gurley

Why Winter Makes Eczema Worse — And How to Calm Your Skin Fast

If your eczema always seems to flare the moment December arrives, you’re not imagining it. Winter is the harshest season for the skin barrier, and people with eczema often experience more itching, redness, and dryness than any other time of year. Cold air outside, dry indoor heat, and reduced humidity create a perfect storm for irritation. The good news? With the right routine and targeted dermatology treatments, winter eczema can be controlled—and even prevented.

Why Winter Triggers Eczema: The Science Behind the Flare

Eczema is a condition linked to a weakened skin barrier. In healthy skin, lipids (fats) help seal in moisture and keep irritants out. In eczema-prone skin, this barrier is already fragile—and winter makes it significantly worse.

Here’s why:

1. Cold air contains almost zero humidity

Winter air pulls moisture out of the skin faster than any other season. This leads to transepidermal water loss, making skin itchy, inflamed, and prone to cracking.

2. Indoor heaters make dryness worse

While heaters keep you comfortable, they also strip the air—and your skin—of essential moisture. This double whammy is why eczema often worsens as soon as heating systems turn on.

3. Hot showers damage the skin barrier

Hot water dissolves the natural oils the skin needs to stay hydrated. The result? More flaking and redness, especially in sensitive areas like hands, elbows, and behind the knees.

4. Irritants increase during the holidays

Wool sweaters, fragrance-filled laundry detergents, holiday stress, and cold wind exposure all worsen eczema symptoms.

How to Calm Winter Eczema Quickly

If you’re experiencing a flare, the right products and habits can make a dramatic difference.

1. Switch to a thick, ceramide-rich moisturizer

Look for ingredients like:

  • Ceramides

  • Hyaluronic acid

  • Petrolatum

  • Shea butter

  • Colloidal oatmeal

Apply immediately after showering to trap moisture in the skin.

2. Take short, lukewarm showers

Limit showers to 5–10 minutes and avoid harsh soaps. Opt for hydrating cleansers that don’t strip natural oils.

3. Use a humidifier daily

Restoring moisture to the air can significantly reduce itching and dryness.

4. Avoid wool, fragrance, and alcohol-based skincare

Stick with breathable, soft cotton fabrics and fragrance-free products.

When to See a Dermatologist

If your eczema is painful, spreading, or keeping you up at night, professional treatment can bring rapid relief. Dermatologists may recommend:

  • Prescription-strength topical steroids

  • Non-steroid creams (like tacrolimus or crisaborole)

  • Antihistamines for itching

  • Phototherapy for chronic cases

Getting treatment early can prevent the flare from worsening.

The Bottom Line

Eczema is highly sensitive to winter weather, but with the right approach, flare-ups can be dramatically reduced. Hydration, barrier support, and early intervention are key to keeping your skin comfortable all season long.


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5 Eczema Treatments That Will Calm Your Angry, Itchy Skin

By Maressa Brown | Health and Beauty Editor at Self

Grappling with eczema—an inflammatory skin condition that can cause relentless itchiness, extreme dryness, angry rashes, scaly patches, and even blisters—can sometimes feel like an uphill battle. Even if you purge your medicine cabinets of the zillions of perfumed lotion samples you’ve accumulated over the years, you might still find yourself scratching insatiably. The struggle sucks, but you’re not alone. More than 31 million people in the US have eczema—and many of them find ways to care for their skin and get relief, just as you will too.

While the causes of eczema can vary from person to person, people prone to developing it tend to have a weak skin barrier that allows bad stuff to creep into the body (a.k.a. allergens, bacteria, and viruses) while good things exit (a.k.a. moisture).1 At the same time, people with eczema often have overactive immune systems that can spur skin to freak out simply in the presence of an allergen, even without actual contact, Amy Freeman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Millburn, New Jersey, tells SELF. Your environment (like frigid or swampy weather) can also set off symptoms, according to the National Eczema Association.

As you probably already know, the urge to dig your nails into your skin can really screw with your quality of life, Dr. Freeman says. “It can be very uncomfortable and lead to sleepless nights,” she explains. “It could also affect work and school.”

While avoiding your personal triggers can help prevent flare-ups, you should see a dermatologist if your skin is persistently stressing you out. Here are five eczema treatment options worth talking to them about.

1. Over-the-counter moisturizers

Whether you’re dealing with a mildly annoying or straight-up painful case of eczema, you need to moisturize, Dr. Freeman explains. Your skin is in constant jeopardy of drying out. “By moisturizing, you’re adding back hydration [and] protecting the skin barrier so you won’t be as susceptible to outside pollutants and allergens,” she says, adding that these substances will just make irritation worse if your skin is freaking out.

Your dermatologist can offer recs about the best eczema cream for your symptoms, but there are helpful ingredients to scan for in a potential product, including those meant to hydrate by pulling water into the skin (humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin), restore and calm angry flare-ups (like ceramides and colloidal oatmeal), and protect the skin by locking in moisture (occlusives like petrolatum).

Dr. Freeman favors Vanicream and CeraVe Moisturizing Cream as solid picks, while Ramya Garlapati, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Glendale, California likes Cetaphil’s Eczema Restoraderm Flare-Up Relief Cream, which contains colloidal oatmeal. (You can also find oatmeal in Aveeno Eczema Therapy Daily Moisturizing Cream.)

Just be sure that the product you’re using (whatever it may be) doesn’t contain fragrances or essential oils, as those ingredients can sometimes trigger flare-ups, according to the National Eczema Association. (Your doctor may also advise an in-office skin patch test to help identify your unique ingredient triggers.)

Dr. Freeman suggests applying your moisturizer after showering while your skin is still damp—ideally within three minutes of hopping out—to help stop all that hydration from escaping. “Partially dry off and apply a liberal amount all over the whole body, every day, preferably twice a day,” she advises.

2. Prescription-strength creams

Sometimes OTC moisturizer won’t cut it, says Dr. Freeman. That’s when a prescription-strength corticosteroid cream—which helps to suppress the inflammatory cells that cause your skin to bug out—might help in the short term. Just be sure to use these exactly how your doctor prescribes them, and to raise a flag if symptoms seem to get worse.

Sometimes, though, a steroid cream might not do the trick, or your eczema pops up in a particularly sensitive spot, like your groin, eyelids, or face. Steroid creams can also cause skin thinning when used excessively, so your doc should go over that possible risk with you if your eczema hits an already-vulnerable area. If you have these concerns, your doctor might recommend a different class of anti-inflammatory ointments or creams that aren’t as potent and therefore can be used longer-term, Divya Shokeen, MD, a Glendale, California–based dermatologist, tells SELF. Here are the three most common:

Topical calcineurin inhibitors (TCIs): They help to prevent your immune system from switching on in the presence of a trigger.

  • Topical PDE4 inhibitors: These also suppress an overactive immune system.2

  • JAK inhibitors: This treatment stops your body from sending out inflammation signals.

These options can be more expensive than steroid creams, explains Dr. Freeman,3 “but they’re well tolerated.”

3. Oral medications

If you’re itching all over or if creams just aren’t cutting it, an oral medication might be the way to go, says Dr. Shokeen. Typically you have two types to choose from: oral steroids (which can calm your immune system and tame inflammation to give immediate relief during flare-ups) and nonsteroidal immunosuppressant oral medications (which keep the immune system from continuously flipping out over the long haul, explains Dr. Garlapati).

Unless it’s totally unavoidable, many doctors generally try to avoid prescribing oral steroids because of their (sometimes) uncomfortable side effects if they’re used long-term. Still, steroids might be a fast-acting solution to consider if you’re in the throes of a hellish flare-up. But you’ll probably still need to see a doctor regularly for lab work when you’re on them, just to make sure you’re responding well to the medication.4

Nonsteroidal immunosuppressant oral medications aren’t always free of side effects, though. Some people who take them report having upset stomachs, headaches, and fatigue, among others. (Basically, it’s super crucial to take these, like any other prescription treatment for eczema, under the close supervision of a derm.)

4. Phototherapy

According to Dr. Shokeen, phototherapy (a.k.a. ultraviolet (UV) light therapy) is an ideal treatment when your skin can’t really handle—or isn’t responding to—topical creams or oral medications.5 During a treatment session, you—or the specific body parts affected by eczema—are exposed to filtered wavelengths of UV light for a few minutes, which can help calm down immune system cells that are causing inflammation. Though you typically need steady treatment for a month or two before seeing results, it can be really positive, she says. “The most common risk is sunburn or reddening of the skin,” Dr. Freeman explains. (It’s important to note that phototherapy is done in a dermatologist’s office and never a tanning bed!)

5. Biologics

Biologics—injectable medications that calm the immune system and reduce inflammation—are considered a last-ditch treatment for eczema when other remedies haven’t worked, according to all the dermatologists SELF spoke with. But if you’re really suffering, they can sometimes be a game-changer for your skin: “Biologics have been a life-changing treatment for patients with stubborn eczema that’s chronic and relapsing,”6 explains Dr. Freeman. “They keep the immune system from overreacting, which lowers inflammation and decreases the symptoms of eczema.”

In general, you wouldn’t try this method unless topical treatments weren’t a fit, notes Dr. Garlapati. Biologics tend to come with some side effects, require regular injections (either at home or at a doctor’s office), and can be pricey, says Dr. Shokeen, which “may be a concern for individuals with limited time or resources.”

No matter which route you take, Dr. Shokeen says it’s crucial to speak up when your eczema treatment feels like it’s doing too little (or maybe too much, as far as side effects go). Dealing with itchy, irritated skin that you’ve had trouble soothing isn’t easy. But if a particular medication isn’t working, rest assured there’s something else (and something else beyond that) to try. You and your dermatologist will get there eventually—and your endless scratching won’t be so endless after all.

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The Weird Correlation Between Algae & Acne

By Megan Decker | Health and Beauty Editor at Refinery 29

The first thing Sofie Pavitt, NYC esthetician also known as the "acne whisperer," asks her clients who come in  with persistent breakouts is what their skincare and makeup routine looks like. This is so she can identify and  remove all the potentially comedogenic products.

Pavitt explains that comedogenicity, the measure of how likely an ingredient is to clog your pores, is less about specific ingredients and more a reflection of the formulation of a product — which makes buying beauty products both a risk and a headache. Moreover, there's a lot of contrary information. For example, certain ingredients touted as "natural" and "good for your skin's microbiome" are also the same ones that Pavitt will look at and say: Actually, that could be what's breaking you out. Algae extracts, in particular, require a slight disclaimer: If you're acne prone, proceed with caution.

The benefits of algae in skincare

Let's start by addressing the benefits of using algae on your skin. For many people, it's fantastic and there's no cause for any concern when consuming seaweed or spirulina (a type of blue-green algae in greens powder), or using a topical skincare product that has algae on the label. "Algae extracts are rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants," explains dermatologist Divya Shokeen Khalsa, MD, FAAD. The antioxidant properties in algae are particularly impressive — and we know antioxidants are like bubble wrap for your skin, helping protect against environmental damage and reduce inflammation. Moreover, while there are hundreds of different types of algae, Pavitt says that in general, most will act as a humectant, bringing hydration to the skin, which is great, especially if you're dry. 

Algae is also a player in the conversation around microbiome-friendly skincare. "The impact of algae on the skin's microbiome is still an area of ongoing research," explains Dr. Shokeen Khalsa. "It is thought that certain compounds present in algae may have antimicrobial or prebiotic properties [prebiotics are a source of food for bacteria], which may help balance the microbiome and promote a healthy skin environment." 

Why algae is controversial for acne-prone skin

Now, algae sounds like a great addition to a skincare routine. But some people have to be careful with it. Nikki DeRoest, makeup artist and the co-founder of a new SPF-makeup brand called Ciele, self-identifies as very acne-prone. DeRoest explained that when creating a skincare product that would sit on people's skin, it was imperative she remove all potentially comedogenic ingredients. One ingredient she was adamant about removing, you guessed it, algae. "It's very popular in beauty products — both algae and coconut oil derivatives — but I can't put those on my face or I'll break out," DeRoest tells me.

Commonplace comedogenic ingredients include isopropyl alcohol, cocoa butter, coconut oil, synthetic perfumes, and essential oils. But algae surprised me. "Yes, some types of algae can be comedogenic, meaning they have the potential to clog pores and contribute to the formation of acne," explains Dr. Shokeen Khalsa. "While it is difficult to generalize, certain types of algae and certain formulations that involve heavy oils or emollients may have a higher comedogenic potential than others. Especially formulations with castor or coconut oil."

According to dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD, the comedogenic potential of algae is controversial, which is likely why there's not a lot of information about it. "There are reports that suggest [algae] can help reduce inflammation associated with acne, and others that suggest it can encourage the production of acne because of its high iodine content," explains Dr. Camp. His general guidance: "If you have acne-prone skin and you are using an algae containing product that does not exacerbate your acne, you do not need to discontinue use of it," offers Dr. Camp. "Tread carefully if you have acne-prone skin and are starting a new product that contains algae, as some reports suggest it can contribute to acne formation."

The problem with algae supplements

In Dr. Shokeen Khalsa's practice, adverse acne reactions specifically attributed to topical forms of algae are relatively rare. Pavitt says that spirulina supplements or greens powder containing blue-green algae can commonly trigger acne, due to the aforementioned high iodine content. "Although algae is touted as a highly nutritious food and ingredient with anti-inflammatory attributes and antioxidants, it’s also packed with iodine, which can absolutely break you out," Pavitt explains. "Excessive iodine, when consumed in foods or supplements, gets excreted through the pores which causes irritation." Iodine, a trace mineral commonly found in seaweed, seafood, iodized salt, vitamin supplements, and greens powder has been linked to acne.

It's ironic, too, because Pavitt explains that many people who come to her with acne are taking a greens powder to try and clear their skin, when it's actually doing the opposite. "One of the first questions I ask someone with a persistent breakout is if they are using greens powder supplements," Pavitt says. "So many of them [contain] spirulina, which is algae. That can cause breakouts. Taking them off the greens powders that contain algae can be really helpful in clearing them up."

If you're acne prone, the skin experts recommend avoiding algae in skincare and supplements, considering its potential comedogenicity. "When I'm working with a client with active acne, it’s definitely an ingredient I tell them to avoid," offers Pavitt. It's not a huge dermatological concern but more like food for thought, and probably a topic we'll hear more about in the future. As Dr. Shokeen Khalsa notes, "A lot of research is still pending in this area."

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